If a bird fell in love with a fish where would they live?
$459,900 For Sale
Lake: Bird Lake
MLS # 2805232
6313 Morgan Drive
Osseo, Michigan 49266
((6456) Nothing but Quality products used to build the sellers dream log home. (Thick Cedar Logs, Tiffany Lighting, Austrian Cypress Floors, Pella, Corian Counter, Cherry Cabinets & more!) Home has lake front windows, wrap around top deck & 2 lower ones that lead to a paver lake front patio. Open floor plan lets you enjoy the gas, stone fireplace & view. Log stair case leads to the loft. First floor has loads of storage space and a finished recreation room. Extra storage available in the 2 story garage. Southern view of all sport Bird Lake! Offers will be CONSIDERED
Cheap Rubber Paver alternatives for horseshoe pits?
I am building 8 horseshoe pits at a local park for my eagle scout community service project. We were thinking for a while about what to build them with, because we want them to last a very long time. Concrete and stone was out of the question because they will chip and crack when struck with a hard horseshoe, and wood would splinter as well. Eventually we came up with the idea of laying a stone foundation around the pit and covering it with rubber paving squares, which would not be damaged much if at all by the impact of metal horseshoes. However, our budget is not huge and these patio pavers are very expensive (over $600 for all 8 pits). Does anyone know any alternatives, or simply an inexpensive place to buy them, that can cover a 24" x 24" area for less than $9, but still be very durable and impact resistant? (My design would be compatible with nothing larger than a 24" wide pad, unless you were thinking about having a large sheet type thing that we could easily cut to size without wasting a lot.)
Also, we are doing this in Wisconsin, so be aware that they have to be able to stand up to cold temperatures and snow and everything.
Well yeah no shit tinman97prn I'm talking about building the walkways that encircle the actual pit, not the pit itself.
Sorry you were offended by the assumption that you were talking about the horseshoe pit its self since you referred to the horseshoe pit and an area of 24" x 24". An area of 24" x 24" is not adequate for travel by the pitcher. The width is tight and the length is as much as 3' or 4' short to adequately pitch a horse shoe. (It can be thrown, not pitched, from a 24" x 24", patch.) A very good surface that would withstand the weather, drain well, resist traffic, abuse and provide good traction in all weather conditions would be to use crushed limestone, 3/4" maximum size with limestone dust (fines) to lock it together. It would be inexpensive and long lasting. You may want to check out the layout requirements for a horseshoe pitching installation.
How do I build a new paver stone staircase from scratch?
Looking for an answers that I can't seem to find anywhere on Google. I'm getting ready to delve into building my very own paver patio with a staircase (three steps) from my back sliding glass door. This is new construction so there is no staircase there yet. How do I go about building a paver stone stair case? I had read something about cinder blocks and possibly building a concrete staircase and adhering paver stones to it. What is the best method when starting from scratch? Thank you for any guidance!
The most difficult problem is the steps. Packing the area behind the riser (the step up)
There is a lot of planning that is need here. The size of the paver stone! The tread (step area) will be determined by the size stone you chose.
Even though your sliding glass door opens on just one side, normally the step is the entire width of the of the door. (both sides) So when you frame up the area for pouring the concrete to make your base. Then you place the tile for the riser first, using mortar to adhere them. The tread should run over the edge of the riser paver! The seams must not over lap, just like building walls blocks/bricks are staggered. The risers are normally 7 inches in height. If the layout is not good for this then error on shallower steps not higher steps. The treads are at least 9 inches in width, so more is better not less!
To form all of this you will need to have 2 x 6 or 8's, stakes preferably metal, to set the concrete in place and to square the area to assure the aesthetic appearance is what you want!
Will my proposed french drain/catch basin work?
I am building a paver patio in the lowest part of the yard. It abuts against a garage and the grade of the yard goes down into the proposed area. As water runs downhill I don't believe a pipe is an option. My plan to address rainwater and runoff is to dig out an area (roughly 6' by 3' and 3') deep and fill with drainage rock wrapped in landscape fabric. I need to lay 3 inched of gravel and an inch of sand for the patio base. I will gently grade the patio so that the area above the catch basin would be the lowest spot on the patio. I would leave a couple square feet uncovered by pavers but would instead fill the drain rock all the way to the surface. My thought is that the area would catch and drain water that hits the patio and would have the capacity to hold and slowly disperse water after a rainfall without flooding the patio. Do you think this may work?
The patio is roughly 200sq.ft. Would this area have enough capacity? (54sq.ft)
The ground should be compacted so that the pavers don't settle and shift. Would you anticipate a problem building a patio on top of drain rock?
Are there any other items I should be thinking of? Your help greatly appreciated
I think it will settle below the pavers. Best to try and collect it before it reaches the paver area with the "drain rock" area. Pipe it around the patio area to a drain pit as you described. Perforated pipe wrapped in filter fabric would work well below the stone.
Patio and backyard look?
My husband & I had a 600 sf stamped and stained stone-look patio poured last year. The back side of our house is L-shaped with tan vinyl siding and has a gray concrete porch that steps down to the patio which is tan with a (stamped) dark gray release. We're discussing applying a fascia (6-8" wide) to the concrete foundation to fill the small gap below the siding and above the patio...stacked stone(my favorite), brick, or concrete. We also want a low courtyard wall constructed of stone look concrete pavers or stacked stone. And we'd like a small 10 x 12 pavillion built of wood but maybe trimmed in a stone or stone like material. I love the stone look esp. stacked limestone but my husband's concerned we'll get too many materials competing. We've agreed to do one thing at a time and evaluate in between. What would be a good project to do first?
2. wall fascia
3. courtyard wall
I usually think big stuff (#1 & 3) should be done 1st but there are cosmetic reasons I'd like #2 wall fascia done 1st
This is a question only you and your husband can decide. It's a matter of personal taste what you like not what others like.
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